Why raise meat rabbits (and why in a colony)
Rabbits are quiet, small, and efficient at turning forage and feed into meat, which is why homesteaders and backyard keepers raise them. People also raise rabbits for manure that is popular for gardens, for fur, as a family project, or as a way to control some of their own food supply. Rabbit meat is lean and mild, and a single rabbit makes a modest meal.
A colony is an alternative to the traditional approach of keeping each rabbit in its own wire cage. Instead, a group of rabbits lives together in a larger fenced area, often with burrows or shelters, and behaves more like wild rabbits. Colony keepers usually do it to cut daily labor and give animals more space and natural behavior. It is not the easiest or best system for every keeper, so it is worth understanding the trade-offs first.
Colony vs. cages
Colony keeping
- Rabbits can run, dig, and socialize.
- Feeding and watering can be set up to need less daily handling.
- Does often kindle in burrows or boxes with less supervision.
- It is harder to know who bred with whom, track records, or catch a specific animal.
- Parasites and diseases can build up in the soil and spread among group members.
Cage or hutch keeping
- Each rabbit is separate, so you can control breeding, record keeping, and feed.
- Sick animals are easy to notice and separate.
- Cleaning is more regular, and manure can be collected.
- It takes more daily work, and rabbits have less room.
Many keepers combine the two, for example by running a colony for does and kits and using separate housing for bucks or sick animals.
How to set up a rabbit colony
At a basic level, a colony needs a secure pen, shelter, burrow or hide spots, food and water, and a plan for the animals’ health and management.
Space and stocking
There is no single perfect number. As a very rough starting point, keepers commonly allow around 10 square feet or more per rabbit, with more for does with litters, and some suggest starting with a small group like one buck and two does. Crowding raises stress and fighting, so when in doubt, give more space and start with fewer animals.
Space needs depend on your climate, ground, and how much you control the surface. A larger area on dirt can handle more rabbits than a small pen where manure and parasites accumulate.
Fencing, digging, and predators
Rabbits dig, and predators dig too. A common approach includes:
- sturdy welded wire or hardware cloth sides rather than thin chicken wire, which many predators can tear
- fencing buried or an apron of wire laid flat outward from the base, to deter digging in and out
- a secure top, because hawks, owls, and climbing predators can reach a rabbit in an open pen
- a locking gate
Predators such as dogs, foxes, raccoons, and coyotes are a real risk. If you have predators in your area, plan stronger fencing and consider a covered top. Ground-floored pens can also be vulnerable to rodents and other pests, which you will need to manage.
Burrows, nest boxes, and shelter
Rabbits need shade and protection from rain, wind, and temperature extremes. Some keepers provide:
- hutches or insulated boxes for hiding and sleeping
- buried or semi-buried burrow structures made of barrels, pipe, or totes
- nest boxes or other places for does to kindle
- deep bedding in covered areas, such as straw or wood shavings
Make sure any burrow can drain and cannot collapse onto a rabbit. Keep burrow entrances sized so you can still check on the animals.
Rabbits are sensitive to heat. High temperatures can seriously harm or kill them, so provide shade, airflow, and fresh water, and plan for how you would cool them in a heat wave. They also need protection from cold, wet conditions, especially for kits.
Feeding and water
Water must always be available, clean, and unfrozen. Waterers in a colony often use large bowls, bottles, or nipple systems fed from a larger reservoir. Check them often, because rabbits quickly become sick when they cannot drink.
What do meat rabbits eat?
Most meat rabbits do best on a diet built around:
- Pelleted rabbit feed. A good-quality commercial pellet formulated for rabbits is the usual base. Growing and nursing animals typically need a higher-protein pellet than adults at maintenance.
- Hay. Grass hay supports digestion and tooth wear and is a major part of the diet for rabbits of all ages. Alfalfa is sometimes used for growing or nursing rabbits.
- Fresh forage and greens. Some keepers supplement with garden greens and pasture plants. Introduce new foods gradually, and avoid anything you cannot identify, since some plants are toxic.
- Minerals or salt. Some pellets already contain what the rabbits need, so ask your feed supplier or a vet about extras.
Sudden diet changes can upset a rabbit’s digestive system, so make any change gradually. Do not feed rabbits spoiled feed, lawn clippings that may have heated or fermented, or plants that may have been treated with chemicals.
Starting the colony and managing breeding
- Choose your stock. Common meat breeds include New Zealand, Californian, and Silver Fox, but many other breeds and crosses work. Buy from a reputable breeder and ask about the herd’s health.
- Quarantine new animals. Keep new rabbits separate for a period before adding them, so illness does not spread.
- Introduce does together. Many keepers suggest adding does to the pen at the same time, since resident does can attack newcomers, and introducing them to a new space can reduce territorial aggression. Watch closely for serious fighting and separate animals if it happens.
- Add the buck carefully. Some keepers keep the buck with the does permanently, and others keep him separate and introduce him at set times. Bucks and does can fight, and some bucks harass does or kits.
- Expect natural breeding. In a colony, does may breed frequently and without your direct control, so you may see overlapping litters. Be ready to remove young animals, move excess rabbits, or separate males from females to avoid overcrowding.
- Watch for growth differences. Kits raised in a colony may grow at a different pace than kits raised in carefully controlled conditions, so expect slower or more variable growth than in cage-based systems.
What is the 3-3-3 rule for rabbits?
The “3-3-3 rule” is not a single, standard rule in rabbit keeping. The phrase is more widely known as a rule of thumb for adopting rescue dogs (3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months of adjustment), and you will see it applied in various ways to new pets, including rabbits. If you see the phrase on a rabbit forum or video, check what the writer means. A safer, more general approach for new rabbits is to expect a period of settling in, give them quiet time, keep them quarantined from the others, and watch carefully for changes in eating, droppings, and behavior.
Health, heat, and parasites
Rabbits are prey animals and often hide illness until they are quite sick. Keep a close eye on them. Contact a vet who treats rabbits promptly if you see:
- not eating or very small or no droppings
- bloated abdomen or signs of pain
- diarrhea or a messy rear
- sneezing, nasal discharge, or labored breathing
- head tilt or loss of balance
- limpness in hot weather, panting, or collapse
- maggots or open wounds, since flystrike can progress quickly
- sudden unexplained deaths in the group, which may indicate an infectious disease
Colonies on soil can have a higher risk of parasites such as coccidia and worms, because rabbits live where they defecate. Ways to reduce risk include giving rabbits plenty of space, rotating or resting ground when possible, keeping feeders and waterers off the ground, using clean, dry bedding, and removing animals that look unwell. Do not give medication without veterinary guidance. Also check with your local veterinary authority about diseases that are reportable in your area.
Pros and cons
Potential benefits
- Less daily labor with well-planned automatic feed and water
- More room and natural behavior
- Less equipment than a bank of cages
- Does can raise young in a more natural environment
Potential drawbacks
- Harder to keep pedigrees and records
- Harder to catch animals, especially if they hide in burrows
- Higher risk of parasites and disease spread when ground is not managed
- Potential for fighting, overbreeding, and overcrowding
- More vulnerable to predators and weather
- Possibly slower or more uneven growth
Butchering and legal notes
Raising animals for meat is a serious commitment. Many first-timers struggle with attachment, so it helps to think through your plans before you buy. Learn humane processing methods from an experienced person or a trusted source before you need them, and ask your local authority about rules on slaughter and sale. Rules on keeping rabbits and selling meat vary by location. If you plan to sell, check your state and local regulations.
Frequently asked questions
Why do farmers own rabbits? Reasons include meat, fur, manure for gardens, low space requirements, and the fact that they are quiet and fast-breeding.
Can I keep rabbits with chickens or other small livestock? It is often better to keep species separate. Different species have different feed, housing, and disease concerns. If you also keep goats or poultry, see our guide to taking care of goats or look into raising quail as another small-space meat and egg option.
How many rabbits should I start with? A small group, such as one buck and two does, is a common starting point. Start small, learn, and then expand.